Proenza Schouler’s runway presentation for Autumn 2015 in a word popped. Always it’s been a solid brand with a loyal fan base, but over the past few years chatter around the label has faded a bit because its collections while well done haven’t risen above the racket generated by New York Fashion Week. Nothing wrong with that and it’s entirely possible that suuch a formula has benefited its bottom line quite positively (hard to say because Proenza is a private company and keeps its money matters to itself). Nonetheless, it was pretty fun to see the talented design duo of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez step out with this collection showing edgier offerings than usual, with bold looks made even bolder with feather shoulder and waist detailing, zigzag cuts and garment flaps.
That said, it was interesting to note the current king of the fashion publication hill, Style.com, gave the label a bit of a slap on the wrist by implying the collection while fun to behold was akin to an affair with a flashy side piece that potentially would leave the label’s loyal customer cold. Really though, replace the dramatic fishnets with plain black ones and remove a couple of pieces that were super arty (the flappy grey coat and the starfish dress) and the collection is daring and sexy, yes, but also wearable. All of which may challenge the loyalist, but at the same time could lure in those who haven’t been paying attention. After all, a little shakeup is often good for a relationship, while conversely too much predictability can lead it to its death.