New York retailer VFiles once again kicked off NYFW with a bang, with a show centered around a selection of five up and coming designers, discovered within VFiles.com’s virtual creative community with finalists selected by a panel of mentors. This year the winning designers were Anton Belinskiy (Kiev), Kim Shui (New York City), Hardeman (Amsterdam), Ottolinger (Berlin) and Neurocouture (New York).
The event, as much about incubating and encouraging new talent as it is keeping fashion’s misfit child spirit alive, opened with a marching band and a preview of VFile’s collaboration with Studio XO on a wearable tech line. The presentation was immediately followed by a performance by Beyoncé’s Parkwood Entertainment signee, r&b singer Sophie Beem.
Designer Kim Shui kicked off the show with a collection of reconsructed looks the designer described as appropriate for women with an “off-kilter sense of elegance.” The New York based designer has a eye for color and texture, mixing and contrasting materials that are seemingly odd choices when standing alone, but when joined with other fabrics make a modern and nuanced statement. Shui received a nod from Kyle Jenner, who attended the show wearing the designer’s lace jumpsuit.
Anton Belinsky was up next, offering bright and bold, sporty unisex collection, highlighted by over-sized capes, anoraks and jackets layered over silky dresses and slacks using rouching to make sculpted statements. The colorful collection was brought together by the footwear with all the models wearing pairs of all-white New Balance 624.
The Hardeman presentation was a big crowd favorite, and lit up the room with denim-themed offerings highlighting the fabric’s ability to be multi-faceted. Designer Sophie Hardemann described the collection as intentionally “deconstructed and dislocated and out of proportion,” adding “I wanted to take the malfunction and discomfort and make that sexy.” Hardemann was aided by a merry band of models who cavorted down the runway, breathing further life into the spirit of the collection.
Ottolinger made up of design duo Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient conveyed a cool girl punkish sensibility with a collection they said was themed on deconstructing and “messing with fabrics and seeing how far you can push the edge of what can be worn.”
Winner of the wearable tech category, label Neurocouture showed a line whose lights were designed to communicate and reflect the wearer’s state of mine.
The show closed with a performance by Compton rapper Tyga, who showed his support of the event by wearing a yellow jacket designed by Belinsky.