Known for advocating for better working conditions for models (see his Business of Fashion talk on diversity below), casting director James Scully made a big stir with an Instagram post yesterday, calling out Balenciaga for hiring “serial abusers” Maida Gregori Boina and Rami Fernandes to cast their show.
Scully said the models attending the Balenciaga go-see were forced to wait up to three hours in a dark staircase before being seen, a wait caused in part because the directors had gone out to lunch. Some were so traumatized by the treatment they let their agencies known they wouldn’t attend go-sees for Hermès and Elie Saab, which are also cast by Boina and Fernandes.
In the same post, Scully also said he had heard rumors Lanvin had told agencies it wasn’t interested in seeing black models. “I have heard from several agents, some of whom are black that they have received mandate from Lanvin that they do not want to be presented with women of color,” wrote Scully, “And another big house is trying to sneak 15-year olds into Paris!”
Owned by publicly-traded fashion house Kering, Balenciaga responded swiftly to the post, sending a note to press letting it be known the two casting agents had been fired along with notes of apology to the models’ agencies.
Lanvin on the other hand went into full denial mode. “These allegations are completely false and baseless,” said Lanvin spokesperson Sophie Boilley.
In regards to the French label’s recent history in terms of casting women of color, for its spring 2017 runway, Lanvin showed 49 looks, two of which were modeled by black women. Update: Lanvin showed its fall 2017 runway today (March 1, 2017) and out of 42 looks, two were modeled by black women.
Scully’s post was full of comments from models who praised him for speaking out. “Preach. Also you should be casting more just to bring more justice and equality to this industry,” wrote Joan Smalls.
James Scully Business of Fashion interview on industry issues related to diversity