Known as a street informed label that is equal parts arty, irreverent and at times bratty, Demna Gvasalia-led Vetements collection for autumn 2016 stayed true to its merry band of freaks aesthetic, showing a wide range of gender-free looks highlighted by artful tops and jackets with wackily-wide shoulder contrasted by ones scrunched up to the extreme, as well as super cool slouchy slacks and of course the over-sized long-sleeved tees, tracksuits and bomber jackets that have made Vetements the leading brand of choice with rap/pop music’s leading style troika: Kanye (sitting front row), ASAP and Rihanna.
Among the tops featuring English and French phrases, the Parisian design collection showed a sense of humor, pulling the quote “Let the Bridges I Burn Light My Way” from an episode of ’90s favorite teen drama “Beverly Hills, 90210.” It’s a phrase that works because it reflects the label’s disinterest in following the rules, but also shows it doesn’t take itself all that seriously.
Accessories that added pop and surely will be coveted by the label’s most fervent followers include Vetement branded athletic socks, industrial looking over-the-knee boots and a giant belt ring, big enough to hang a sweater or jacket on a warm day.
One thing though that’s important, all of Vetement’s models appeared to be white, which is just whack, especially given it was street cast. Given how much the label draws from trends started by people of color, this is a very unappreciative look for the label that is need of correction. Casting in many ways is the least of the fashion world’s issues when it comes to race, and yet, cast diversity makes a clear statement and not only has an impact but is also meant to send a message. UPDATE: It looks like Balenciaga, which showed after Vetements and is also led by Gvasalia, also had an all white cast.
See more of the collection below plus a Vogue interview with Gvasalia.
.@Formichetti, Collier Schorr, and Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia discuss his new collection. #PFW https://t.co/wFTiW6ufXh — Vogue Runway (@VogueRunway) March 4, 2016