During those periods of casualization in fashion (like we’re in right now), it’s designers like New York-based designer Jaesyn Burke who not only hold down the spot for pageantry, but is also the engine for translating street trends into formal ones with fresh appeal (that whole all over lux print trend is not new to him!) A graduate of the House of Patricia Field, Burke has had a thriving design business since he moved to New York ten years ago, with offerings include super fab eyewear (clientele includes Lady Gaga, Snooki, Cee-Lo Green and Usher), bowties and ties, plus the formal gowns and dresses of one’s dreams.
We met last week at (the legendary) Limpasse boutique in the West Village and had the best talk about fashion and what is bubbling in the world of formalwear, epsecially as it applies to “pre-wedding” aka prom, a season Burke was very much in the thick of when we spoke. Check it out below.
Q: What are you working on now?
Jaesyn: Right now it’s prom and wedding season. So I’m booked for three weddings and 15 girls for prom season. I don’t want to toot my horn but I’m a big deal around prom season. Right after that I’m doing an alternative menswear collection for gay pride. It’s a small collection that will be featured in a boutique that has a lot of clients in the LBTG community. And then I have to put together a small men’s collection for New York Fashion Week.
Q: I’m so curious about prom, where are your clients based?
Jaesyn: The bulk are based in NY and NJ, this year I had a couple in Atlanta and I had to travel to Atlanta for three clients.
Q: That’s amazing you went to Atlanta.
Jaeyson: My goddaugher lives there and bragged about me to everyone lol.
Q: Could you ever move to Atlanta?
Jaesyn: I love New York love so much, I doubt that would happen. One could say Atlanta has a lower cost of living, but New York is the magic, it’s hard to explain.
Q: I love teenagers, I’m wondering what is ruling their prom world this year?
Jaesyn: A lot of the girls are going for the mermaid gown, which I’ve always loved. The trains are more dramatic. Beyoncé is definitely an influence this year, a lot of them came with Beyoncé and JLo references and dresses similar to what Rihanna would wear.
Q: That makes sense, their gowns are always amazing.
Jaesyn: Flesh-toned gowns are really big this year. I’m just hoping they can get into prom! A couple of girls went for ball gowns.
Q: From some of the images I’ve come across, my impression was that prom had become dressed down.
Jaesyn: Oh no! I wish that was the case; I’m literally creating haute couture gowns, big tulle ball gowns. These are literally red carpet dresses. I always refer to the senior prom as the pre-wedding, a chance for them to show out with fashion.
Q: What is your design process?
Jaesyn: It’s complex, I rarely sketch, usually I’ll come with a design in my head. I don’t follow blogs and don’t watch fashion shows. I want my own creative juices to flow, I don’t want to be influenced by another designer. Sometimes I have dreams of designs and when I wake up I sketch. Shopping fabric stores is like a ritual for me. I’m there every other day. I’m kind of like a fabric addict. Some people shop for clothes, I shop for fabric.
Q: What’s inspiring you in the fabrics world?
Jaesyn: There are a lot of new sequin fabrics; fabric makers right now are offering very innovative eveningwear fabric. There’s a bit more focus on that category. For some reason it’s blown up and gotten bigger.
Q: Where are you seeing that expressed?
Jaesyn: On Instagram, there is a ton of eveningwear. Women are finding more places to go to wear it. It’s great to see women getting back into it. I just think every woman gets to a point where she thinks, I work hard, I work everyday, let me get back to the true essence of femininity.
Q: How did you process the passing of Prince? Heartbreaking right?
Jaesyn: It was devastating. He was a musical genius, but just as much he encouraged people to be free and themselves without regret. He was a rebel. A great loss for the entertainment world and the world in general. I always considered him a fashion icon. He always had that wow factor and never lost it. And it was shocking, it came out of nowhere.
Q: As a designer what is something that you feel you do really well,
perhaps better than no one?
Jaesyn: I take pride in the quality of my work. I’m very big on detail.I triple stitch all my clothing. I absolutely dread the idea of a garment coming apart. I take pride in my hand detailing and I think I’m a master at it.
Q: Are you a perfectionist?
Jaesyn: Oh gosh yes, it’s terrible. My family members and friends think I’m insane. When I do top stitching it’s three rows of stitching. For one prom gown, it was embellished with Swarovski, 130 on one sleeve and I counted to make sure there were 130 on the other. It’s bad, but I own it. It’s a gift and a curse
Q: How did your family respond to you wanting to be a designer?
Jaesyn: They were excited, my mother was a seamstress, and she taught me how to sew and use patterns, starting when I was 11 or 12. I made all my sisters prom dresses. In high school, once my classmates found out I could design, they lined up. I was making a cute coin but had no life. I made all my girlfriends’ proms dresses. It was like a fashion show.
Q: You got your first start in New York at Patricia Field, how did that come about?
Jaesyn: When I was 20 or 21 before I had moved to NYC. I visited her store, and immediately fell in love. I had my accessory collection on hand and they loved it and immediately wanted it. They bought two pieces right there. At this point I was doing a line of feather chokers with a crystal leash and coordinated rabbit fur cuffs.
Q: How did you feel about her store closing?
Jaesyn: That was devastating, she helped launched my career. She’s helped launch a lot of designers so it’s a big loss. Every boutique doesn’t promote their designers. She helps get designs on celebrities.
Q: Having worked with celebrity clients, what role do you play in helping them realize their visions?
Jaesyn: Some celebrities bring their own ideas, but a lot of them don’t know a damn thing about fashion. That’s a big misconception.
Q: What are some of your big celebrity design moments?
Jaesyn: I did a jacket for Beyoncé. She’s very humble. She’s open to your ideas and listening to concepts. This was many moons ago, but on stage she’s a diva and great performer, but in person, she’s literally shy.
Q: Is that something you want to do more of, design for celebrities?
Jaesyn: For me, I’ve found it’s better for me financially if I dip in and out of the industry. When a designer is first coming up and trying to become established, there’s an expectation you’re going to do a ton of free stuff and it burns you out as a designer. I’ve heard horror stories and I don’t want to be a victim. you don’t want to do everything for free.
Q: What are you doing in the realm of menswear?
Jaesyn: I do a bow tie collection. It’s using a vintage look, and taking it to the next level and making it better. That’s an all year round item for me. It does really, really well in Australia, and I also have clients in Canada and in Florida.
Q: Who or what currently is having the biggest influence on new ideas
in fashion?
Jaesyn: I definitely think the newness now is in menswear. Men are taking more risks and collections are more cutting edge versus tailored subtle men’s wear. Looks are a lot more fun, there’s a lot more color, guys are coming out of their shells a little.
Q: What about the fashion industry do you think is changing for the better/worse?
Jaesyn: What’s better is emerging designers are finally being given more opportunities. The fashion industry used to very clique-ish; it was like trying to break into a club, it was a gated community. Social media opened the floodgates. Before social media, we were limited to our client base. With social media, you can have a broader clientele. Now the Bergdorfs of the world are doing more open calls for emerging designers. I just received an email for an open call. That’s one of the better things. We didn’t have these chances back in the day. I don’t know what’s changing for the worse. I don’t think anything is.
Q: What’s the dream for you, Jaesyn?
Jaesyn: The idea of becoming a household name world wide, making the brand known worldwide. I just want to be a household name.
For more info on JaesynBurke and to see what’s popping in his shop. visit JaesynBurke.com.
