Good news for fashion lovers who look back longingly on fashion’s more decadent past, fabled Italian label and retailer Fiorucci has begun to make its return to retail, as directed by new owners Janie and Stephen Schaffer, who are known for having founded (and sold) U.K. lingerie brand Knickerbox.
Taking a careful approach, the formerly married duo who are now business partners, have relaunched the label at Barneys, with a line of denim to be followed by t-shirts, sweatshirts and swimwear. Inspired by delving into the archives of founder Elion Fiorrucci (who passed away in 2015 at the age of 80), denim is significant for the label because Fiorrucci is widely credited with being the first designer to produce skinny jeans for women.
Started in 1967 in Milan, Fiorucci was celebrated for its celebration of disco-era decadence and freedom, and was known for its relationship with ground-breaking creatives of the time, including French jewelry designer Maripol, who was the creative director of the New York store and lured in talent including Betsey Johnson, Keith Haring and Kenny Scharf.
The Schaffers acknowledge the label’s past is so storied that it creates challenges in reviving the brand. “You think, Oh, my God, can we ever do justice to Fiorucci?” said Janie in an interview with W magazine. “Because you’re trying to tap into a psyche of happiness from 1982. Fashion is such a serious business now. How on earth do you go back and make people feel like they’re 20 again?”
In addition to the collection at Barney’s, the couple also plan to open retail stores with the first location opening in London’s SoHo neighborhood in August. Tapping into the energy of the original stores, the London location will include ongoing projects with artists, musicians, and other creatives. An additional location is planned for Milan in 2018, followed by Los Angeles.
