Not sure what is in the air, but like many labels, Moschino‘s color palette for autumn was darker and somewhat rock/goth inspired, a change that stands out a bit more at Moschino if only because designer Jeremy Scott‘s creations until now have been bright and punchy, often making pop culture references through logos, toys and animated characters.
The edgier statement for autumn 2016–including leather coats and skeleton-adored dresses–was driven home toward the end of the presentation with garments featuring charred cut-outs that in some case were literally smoking. Scott said the smoking garments were a reference to the European Bonfire of the Vanities, a event during the 15th century when Italian monks burned objects condemned by authorities as capable of enticing sin. Referencing back to smoke, the collection also included cigarette earrings and bags featuring cigarette box graphics.
Whatever the message of the event was meant to convey, the smoke, along with the Middle Eastern carpets and decadent backdrop (including stacked up ornate mirrors, a crashed chandelier and broken piano), added an artful edge to the presentation and conveyed a more serious tone around the garments than has not existed until now under Scott’s direction.
One thing that has stayed the same is Moshchino’s comfort with leading the charge on using buzz created by the runway to sell product. Similar to prior collections, a capsule of clothes, bags and accessories were made immediately available for purchase following the presentation. How this type of set up isn’t the norm for every label is difficult to understand.